An Irishman in Indy: A 5 day Blog from the Circle City

So when Aer Lingus announced their direct route from Dublin to Indianapolis, I knew it was time to explore somewhere a little less obvious and a bit more unexpected.Now, when you hear “Indy,” most people immediately think of cars. The Indy 500, fast engines, and petrol-fuelled thrills. And fair enough, it is the racing capital of the world. But as I found out, there’s so much more to this proud Midwestern city. From gondola rides and music festivals to horse trails and coffee culture, Indy has a spirit that sneaks up on you and wins you over as soon as you speak the first local.So here it is, my five day journey through Indianapolis, a mix of must sees, hidden gems, food finds, and that warm Midwestern welcome that truly surprised me.

So here it is, my five day journey through Indianapolis, a mix of must sees, hidden gems, food finds, and that warm Midwestern welcome that truly surprised me.

After an afternoon Aer Lingus flight from Dublin direct to Indy, it got us reaching the city just after 6pm, the perfect moment to ease in, stretch the legs, and start soaking up the local vibe. A quick 20 minute Uber brought us right into the heart of Indianapolis.

We checked in at the Bottleworks Hotel, and let me tell you, this place is something special. Set in the historic Bottleworks District on Mass Ave (Massachusetts Avenue, but everyone calls it “Mass Ave”), it used to be a Coca Cola bottling plant. Now it’s one of the most stunning hotels I’ve stayed in, art deco, immaculately restored, and recently ranked in the top 25 hotels in the entire US. The staff welcomed us like old friends, and right away I got a sense of the friendly, laid back energy of the Midwest.

We didn’t waste any time. We headed out for a slice of Authentic Americana, a baseball game. The Indianapolis Indians, the city’s AAA team, were playing under the Friday night lights and we had club level seats. The game itself was great fun, but what stood out even more was the crowd. Locals cheering, chatting, laughing. It felt like being invited to a citywide BBQ where everyone just happens to love baseball. Add in the buzz from the Indiana Pacers being in the NBA playoffs that same weekend, and it was clear this is a city that lives and breathes sport.

Jet lag was creeping in fast, so after the game, we called it a night. A full belly, a warm welcome, and the hum of a new city. I slept like a log ready for the next day of exploring.

We kicked off the day with a proper breakfast pastry and caffeine fix at Amelia’s Bakery. Top marks. The coffee culture in Indy surprised me. It’s creative, community focused, and seriously good.

We explored Stutz, a former car factory turned arts and design hub filled with galleries and studios. Then it was back to Mass Ave for a wander through its colourful shops, bars, and rainbow flag draped cafés. It happened to be around Indy Pride, and you could feel the love in the air. Open, joyful, and community led, this city really felt like it was a city for everyone as we walked the streets during Pride.

That evening, we did something a little unexpected. A gondola ride on the Central Canal. Serenaded by a classically trained gondolier, floating through the heart of a Midwest city. It was surreal, charming, and something I’d never have guessed was a thing in Indiana.

Later, we hopped in a Lyft and headed to Broad Ripple Village, a lively district by the river. We grabbed some food, strolled with ice cream, and for those after a buzzier night, we were tipped off to check out Brick House Piano Bar, a local gem with live music and good craic, although you won't be short of a bar in this part of town to spend the night!

Day three had us channeling our inner Yellowstone with horseback riding at Fort Harrison State Park. From the Peaceful trails through the woods and a morning atop the lovely horses. The chance to breathe fresh air just minutes from the city, It was the ideal contrast to city life for those wanting to get in touch with your nature side.

Next up, a bit of retail therapy. One of the main spots for it was The Fashion Mall at Keystone had all the brands we’re familiar with and plenty we aren’t. Dangerous for the wallet, great for the soul. You can't visit America without a stop at a mall or two.

Dinner was at The Garage Food Hall, a buzzing spot in Bottleworks where you can try everything from tacos to Thai. Think upscale food court with industrial chic vibes in the heart of a revitalized industrial garage.

Afterward, we hopped on Lime scooters and zipped through the city like kids. Personally, I cant think of a better way to see the sights. The Pacers were gearing up for one of their big playoff games, and even just riding past Gainbridge Fieldhouse, you could feel the electricity in the air. Indy isn’t just proud of its sports, it lives them. We hopped off the scoots by the stadium and there happened to be build up events going on, so it was a great way to spend the evening people watching and soaking in the atmosphere.

We started the day at Café Patachou, a local breakfast spot tucked inside the historic Stutz Building. It had that perfect morning vibe with the smell of coffee and fresh bread filling the space.

After breakfast, we made our way to one of Indy’s most iconic attractions, the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum, one spot you can't miss when visiting. Whether you’re a diehard racing fan or just someone who loves a good story, this place has a kind of magic to it. The museum is packed with legendary cars and rich history, but the best part was the track tour. Riding around the Speedway and standing on the actual yard of bricks felt surreal. Kissing the bricks might sound cheesy, but when you’re standing there imagining the roar of race day, you get a real sense of the scale of this sport.

Still riding that adrenaline high of the racing spirit, we headed to Speedway Indoor Karting. Just down the road from the big track, it gave us a chance to step into the driver’s seat ourselves. Turns out I’m more of a spectator than a racer, but I gave it my best shot. Flying around tight corners and trying not to spin out was a rush just meters away from the speedway.

By dinner, we were ready for something easy and classic, so we pulled into Mug-n-Bun, the oldest drive-in in Indianapolis. It was like stepping into a postcard from the 1950s. Neon lights flickered above, trays balanced on car windows, and the root beer floats came in frosty mugs. I ordered a cheeseburger with onion rings and every bite hit the spot. It’s places like this that really make you feel like you’ve stepped into a piece of Americana.

We ended the day with a stroll through downtown, winding past monuments and quiet green spaces. The Soldiers and Sailors Monument stood tall in the twilight, a fitting end to a day filled with speed, nostalgia and that unmistakable Midwestern charm. I finally understood why they call it the Circle City.

Our final full day in Indy started with a slow morning at Blu Collar Coffee. It’s a little café in Bottleworks district with strong espresso and a relaxed vibe. Just the kind of place where locals gather and time seems to slow down for a minute. The espresso was smooth and the pastries fresh, setting the tone for a laid-back morning.

Next, we headed to RH Indianapolis. Calling it a furniture store doesn’t really do it justice. It’s an immersive design experience with high ceilings, glittering chandeliers and a one of kind restaurant that could easily be mistaken for a five-star resort. Brunch there was something else. We sat out on the terrace for ages with a drink in the sun, soaking in the views and pretending we were part of some elegant dream world.

In the afternoon we went to Newfields, home to the Indianapolis Museum of Art and a beautifully designed outdoor space filled with trails and sculpture gardens. Inside, the art was thoughtful and diverse. Outside, nature and creativity blended together perfectly. It’s the kind of place where your mind quiets down and you feel a little more connected to everything, not to mention a little but more cultured for being there.

That evening, we took a short drive to Noblesville in Hamilton County for a concert at Ruoff Music Center. Mumford and Sons took the stage just as the sun dipped below the horizon. The sky turned from pink to dark blue while the music filled the air. Everyone around us was singing, dancing and just loving being there. With a drink in hand and the summer breeze cutting through the heat, it was the perfect way to close out the trip. A moment that made the whole week feel like something out of a movie.

It’s the friendliness. It’s real. Everyone from hotel staff to Uber drivers was genuinely happy to share their city. It felt just like home with the friendliness of the people, that mid west welcome is truly alive and well.

It’s the surprises. From gondolas to gourmet bakes and specialty coffee, there was always something unexpected around the corner.

And it’s the spirit. Whether in sports, art, or just daily life, Indy feels like a city proud of where it’s been and excited for where it’s going.

Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Especially if you’re Irish and curious about corners of America not always on the tourist map. This isn’t just a detour. It’s a destination.

Stay: Bottleworks Hotel (treat yourself)

Must See: Indy 500 track and tour

Eat: The Garage Food Hall, Amealias, Café Patachou

Don’t Miss: A baseball or basketball game, you will see the best side of the local spirit

Be Open To: Chatting with locals. They make the city and will certainly make your trip.